Site completion! Finally!

June 15th, 2009

It’s taken a long time, but I am proud to announce that www.greenleafimaging.com is now finished!

The web portfolio has been made!

The photo gallery has been populated (still have to add info to the various photos though…)!

And this blog you see now (pretty much) matches the rest of the site!

EDIT: The blog completely matches the site now.

Finally, it has been updated to the latest Wordpress version, 2.8.

Now it’s time for some new articles here! :)

Finishing work on greenleafimaging.com

June 2nd, 2009

The site is nearly done now, and it’s about to be completely done. Here’s an update…

Just done:

  • Sitemap
  • Updated logo portfolio
  • Began web portfolio

Left to do:

  • Finish web portfolio
  • Finish photo gallery
  • Finish modifying blog to match the rest of the site

Open-source alternatives to Adobe

May 11th, 2009

Being a graphic designer on a budget, over the years I’ve had to find free (usually open-source and cross-platform) alternatives to the popular programs by Adobe such as Photoshop and Dreamweaver, due to the prohibitive pricing (even for students) for the product licenses. I have put together a list of my favorite alternatives to Adobe. Most of the following programs work in Mac OS X, Windows, and Linux.

Photoshop. Use: raster graphic creation, photo manipulation. Price: $699.

Alternatives. The open source alternative which most replaces Photoshop is the GIMP. This program has tools very similar to Photoshop’s for drawing graphics and manipulating images.

GIMP

For most of my photo editing needs, however, Google’s Picasa is the best. It has a very fast and elegant photo browser, and its levels control, retouching abilities and other effects are usually more than enough.

Next to Picasa, two commercial (though affordable) programs that I use for some more advanced editing are Apple Aperture (Mac only) and Helicon Filter (Windows only). Apple Aperture includes an image browser, and Helicon Filter has some handy image stacking abilities.

Illustrator. Use: vector graphic art. Price: $599.

Alternative. For all my vector graphic design work (which is the source of all the logos and web graphics I do), I use the open-source Inkscape. The program has an amazing set of drawing tools and features with a level of simplicity that far surpasses Illustrator. And since it is vector-based, all images can be made infinitely large without any loss in quality.

Inkscape in Linux

Inkscape

Dreamweaver. Use: web coding/development. Price: $399.

Alternative.  Dreamweaver allows people to manually code, have the program code it while the person uses it like a word processor, and upload the files to a server. Although it lacks the automatic WYSIWYG features of Dreamweaver, Aptana is a powerful coding tool that makes it easy to manually code and check it with real-world in-program browser previews.

Aptera

Aptana

Geeky.es

May 6th, 2009

In need of tech support from a real live geek?

I just created Geeky.es, a live chat-based tech support website, along with web developer Will Mueller!

Screenshot:

As of now, Will and I are the only Geeks, and we should be plenty enough to solve your tech problems! If you think you could help by becoming a Geek, please go here.

Blog logos

March 22nd, 2009

I have recently done two logos for tech-blog writer Kyle Judkins.


LostInTechnology is a blog that shares lessons learned when dealing with technology. It contains some neat tips and tricks for web browsers, cool how-tos, and various other tidbits about software. Link – LostInTechnology

UpYourSocial is a brand new blog, so new that as of this writing it isn’t finished. The blog will contain tips and tricks for success in social media, from Twitter to your blog. Link – UpYourSocial

Camera Settings Explained

January 23rd, 2009

What do camera settings mean?

Sometimes when explaining how to take a certain kind of picture, photographers mention the camera’s settings and what manual modes are used for the picture. These settings look much like this: f/2.8, 1/125s, 400mm, ISO: 200. (Other settings may include white balance, saturation, or image sharpness, but I’m not going to get into that.) These are the lens’s and sensor’s specifications during the shot are are controlled automatically by the camera in Point and Shoot (P&S) models, or manually by the photographer on the lens or in manual mode (M), program mode (P), aperture priority (A or Av), shutter priority (S or Tv), the camera’s zoom controls and internal digital camera menus.

___________________

So what do all these things mean? Let’s take them one at a time…

Part 1: Explanation of the modes (M, P, A/Av, and S/Tv)

Part 2: Explanation of the settings these modes control (f-number, shutter speed, viewing angle (zoom), and ISO)

___________________

Part 1: Explanation of the modes (M, A/Av, S/Tv, P)

Typical camera dial showing various camera modes.

(The terms, “shutter speed,” “f-number,” and “aperture,” are explained below in Part 2)

M (manual mode) – In manual mode, you have control over both the shutter speed and f-number without the camera doing any automatic exposure calculations. There is often an indicator or a bar showing if your chosen values of the shutter speed and f-number will produce an over-exposed shot, and under-exposed shot, or a properly exposed shot, though it does not take into account special lighting conditions which would cause you take full control.

A or Av (aperture priority) – In aperture priority mode, you tell the camera to use a specific aperture (f-number), and the camera calculates the shutter speed needed to produce a properly exposed shot. You can also tell the camera to over-expose or under-expose the shot by a certain amount, and it will take this into account when calculating the shutter speed.

S or Tv (shutter priority) - In shutter priority mode, you specify a shutter speed for the camera to use and it calculates the corresponding f-number needed to properly expose the shot. As in aperture priority mode, you can instruct the camera with regards to how the image should be exposed.

P (program mode) – In program mode, you tell the camera to make a type of balance between an f-number or shutter speed, so it will try to use a specific value for one or both of these, but it will be able to vary from these values, if need be. As with aperture and shutter priority modes, you can tell the camera to under-expose or over-expose the shot.

ISO settings are usually accessed though the camera’s menus. Zoom is usually set with wide-angle/telephoto buttons, often found at the upper-right of the back side of the camera.

___________________

Part 2: Explanation of the settings: f-number, shutter speed, viewing angle (zoom), and ISO
(For information on what the modes do and how they work, refer to Part 1)

f-number: f/2.8 (Use A/Av, P or M mode) – This is called the f-number or f-stop and refers to the aperture (shutter opening) size. There are many common aperture sizes, often denoted by f/[a number] (that number usually being a multiple of 1.4 or 2), which are used when photographing in various situations. The f-number can be written in different ways. For example, instead of writing f/2.8, the f-number might be written as F2.8, f-2.8, or even as 2.8. As you can see from the below aperture diagram, the larger the number, the smaller the aperture. A complete f-stop increase or decrease (like from f/8 to f/5.6 or from f/2.8 to f/4 respectively) doubles or halves the aperture size and amount of light entering the camera.

Aperture Chart with f-numbers

Diagram showing common f-stop aperture values.

Don’t be confused by the numbers, though. You might think to say that a larger number should mean a larger opening. However, if you’ll notice, f is being divided by that number, so, mathematically, it makes sense that the larger the number, the smaller the total aperture size. Practically speaking, now, the lower the f-number, the more light comes in through the lens and the narrower the depth of field (DOF — distance from the camera in which objects are in focus).

shutter speed: 1/125s (Use S/Tv, P or M mode) – Shutter speed. The shutter speed is the length of time the aperture remains open for a given exposure. The shutter speed is given in a similar format to the aperture: 1 divided by a number. For example, 1/500 means that the shutter will be open for one five-hundredths of a second. As is the case with the aperture, shutter speeds can be denoted in various ways, including 1/125s, 1/125 or just by 125. The larger the number, the shorter the shutter speed. When the shutter speed is one second or longer, it is often indicated by 1″ or 1s. Fast shutter speeds (like 1/1000s) are used when trying to freeze action but decrease the amount of light entering the camera which must be compensated by widening the aperture, increasing the ISO (explained below), or by using photo-editing programs. Slow shutter speeds, like 2s, are often used for night shots or when trying to show motion. If it is bright where the picture will be taken, but one wants to show motion, one may shrink the aperture, use a low ISO, or use polarizer or neutral-density (ND) filters to block out the light.

zoom (viewing angle): 400mm (Wide-angle/Telephoto Zoom controls) – x mm (millimeters) refers to the focal length of the lens and is the camera’s zoom. The “standard” focal length is 35mm and has a viewing angle which is close to that of the non-peripheral part of the human eye sees. When the mm number increases or decreases, the camera is zoomed in more or less, respectively. For those who think in basic terms of “x times zoom,” let us call 35mm “1 x zoom” (although actual times zoom will vary by camera and lens), since 35mm is generally the standard, widest-angle on most attached-lenses cameras. When the mm is doubled, to 70mm, you are now at 2x zoom. Similarly, a camera at 2x zoom probably is at around 70mm. 400mm would be 11.5x zoom. Greater “zooms” (higher mm numbers – telephoto shots) lead to narrower DOFs. Photos of flowers, insects and other macros are often shot at high zoom with a close focus to make the object large in the photograph and stand out against the background or foreground. Wider-angle mm numbers, like 18mm (or 0.5x zoom), lead to very wide DOFs and are often used in landscapes to take in the whole scene.

ISO: 200 (Internal camera menus) – The ISO setting refers to the “film speed” or sensor sensitivity to light. Common ISOs are 50, 64, 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1600 and 3200. The ISO is directly proportional to the amount of light it senses. In basic terms, higher ISOs mean the sensor (or film) is more sensitive to light, while lower ISOs mean the sensor will be less sensitive to light. The main downside to higher ISOs is that high ISOs lead to noisy and grainy photos with less details. (Photo noise is two or more colors which are similar in brightness or color to one another showing up where only one solid color should exist.) Low ISOs are usually used in long-time-exposures (LTEs) because they are less-sensitive to light and better preserve detail than high ISOs.

Article and graphics are copyright by Ariel Lepor.

Site nearing completion

January 20th, 2009

I have made much progress on my site in these last few weeks. I’ve created all pages, and most of them are complete. Still left to do:

  1. Complete photo gallery
  2. Include built-in option for buying photos
  3. Complete portfolio
  4. Have pop-up images to view portfolio images larger
  5. Format sitemap
  6. Touchup blog

The wait is almost over!

New photos to come

December 19th, 2008

I’ve finally started resuming my photography. You can’t see it in the photo gallery yet, but here’s a little taste of things to come… Enjoy!

Update: This photo is now visible in the gallery.

Under construction

November 12th, 2008

As you can see, my site is still under construction. When finished, I will use the blog to share recent photos, news about the site, and interesting tips and tricks for both nature photography and graphic design.

See you soon!